Epic Rhubarb Madeleines

Woohoo. Another Bistronomy installment of the baked delight variety from a wonderful chap from over the pond, Dan Pearson.

Dan was one of the very first chefs to come on board for the book project and he is so delightful its ridiculous. So is his recipe for rhubarb madeleines. This version is so light, with just the right amount of butter to give you an outer crust that indulges and caves into light sponge-like submission.

Proust loved them, and given he is far more articulate than I am in conveying their amazingness I leave you with his words on the power of a madeleine and a cup of tea... and no doubt an insane desire to get your cook on, rhubarb madeleine-style. 

“No sooner had the warm liquid mixed with the crumbs touched my palate than a shudder ran through me and I stopped, intent upon the extraordinary thing that was happening to me. An exquisite pleasure had invaded my senses, something isolated, detached, with no suggestion of its origin. And at once the vicissitudes of life had become indifferent to me, its disasters innocuous, its brevity illusory – this new sensation having had on me the effect which love has of filling me with a precious essence; or rather this essence was not in me it was me... “

—Marcel Proust, In Search Of Lost Time

Rhubarb madeleines

• Use metal moulds. The slipmat variety of moulds just never give you the same crisp external texture.

• Buttered and heavily floured moulds add a nice effect during the cooking process, adding flavour and helping to achieve an even golden colour.

• The key is in the buttery aroma and flavour from the beurre noissette. Take your time with this process.

• The way I was taught how to make a 'burnt butter' was to put butter in the pan, pan to flame, then when it starts to turn to a caramel colour take it off the heat.

• Use fridge temperature butter so it doesn't cook so quickly in the pan and risk burning.

• With a small whisk, constantly whisk the milk solids that caramelise on the bottom of the pan into the fat to accentuate the flavour. The aroma is magic and should smell like buttery toasted nuts. Be sure to scrape all of the milk solids into the mix as it's all flavour that shouldn't be lost.

Makes: 25 large or 40 small madeleines

You will need to begin this recipe one day ahead to marinate the rhubarb.

Ingredients

500g (1 lb 2 oz) rhubarb

1 orange, zest and juice

3 heaped tablespoons raw (demerara) sugar

20g (3/4 oz) fresh ginger

300g (10 1/2 oz/1 1/3 cups) caster sugar

300g (10 1/2 oz) egg whites (approximately 10 eggs)

120g (4 1/2 oz) cake flour, sifted

120g (4 1/4 oz/1 1/4 cups) almond meal, sifted

300g (10 1/2 oz) butter

icing sugar, to dust

Method

Put the rhubarb, orange zest and juice, sugar and ginger in a bowl. Cover tightly to seal and leave overnight in the refrigerator to marinate. Remove the rhubarb, discard the marinating liquid, and dice the rhubarb into 2 cm (3/4 inch) cubes and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 220C, grease the madeleine moulds and set aside.

Mix the caster sugar and egg whites in a standmixer until soft peaks form. Add the sifted flour and almond meal a little at a time to prevent the mixture from clumping. Make a beurre noisette by heating a frying pan over medium heat until hot, add the butter and cook, swirling constantly, until it turns a nut-brown colour. Allow to cool before folding the brown butter gently through the madeleine mixture. Transfer the mixture to a piping bag and place in the refrigerator until firm (about two hours before use).

Pipe the madeleine mixture into the moulds until they are three-quarters full. Gently place a piece of marinated rhubarb in the centre of each madeleine and bake in the oven for 10–12 minutes or until they are golden brown and spring back lightly to the touch. Turn out, dust with icing sugar and eat.

Chef Dan Pearson’s tips for epic Madeleines

• Use metal moulds. The slipmat variety of moulds just never give you the same crisp external texture.

• Buttered and heavily floured moulds add a nice effect during the cooking process, adding flavour and helping to achieve an even golden colour.

• The key is in the buttery aroma and flavour from the beurre noissette. Take your time with this process.

• The way I was taught how to make a 'burnt butter' was to put butter in the pan, pan to flame, then when it starts to turn to a caramel colour take it off the heat.

• Use fridge temperature butter so it doesn't cook so quickly in the pan and risk burning.

• With a small whisk, constantly whisk the milk solids that caramelise on the bottom of the pan into the fat to accentuate the flavour. The aroma is magic and should smell like buttery toasted nuts. Be sure to scrape all of the milk solids into the mix as it's all flavour that shouldn't be lost.